Actualitat

“Arrancar un cep seria com arrancar-nos nosaltres mateixos”

El primer cop que en Ton ens va portar a veure el Turó d’en Mota, jo no volia marxar. Hi ha alguna cosa especial en aquesta vinya que no es pot explicar, cal anar-hi. Algú que hagi experimentat el mateix que jo quan hi vaig anar potser diria que és un lloc beneït, espiritual o ple d’energia positiva. Només diré que hi ha alguna cosa molt especial en aquesta vinya que em fa descriure-la com mai he fet amb cap altre trosset de terra plantat amb ceps.

Turó d’en Mota significa “el turó de la família Mota” i fou plantat el 1940. Els ceps són retorts, gruixuts i sembla que han tingut una vida bona, però dura, i cadascun d’ells té la seva pròpia aparença i personalitat de tal manera que tots podrien tenir un nom propi fàcilment. La parcel·la no és gran, només 0,97 ha i fa un parell d’anys el número de ceps es va reduir d’una manera abrupta i trista.

Aparentment aquella nit havia estat plovent i algú va lliscar amb el cotxe pels camins enfangats que envolten les vinyes i va impactar amb el Turó d’en Mota, emportant-se uns 10 ceps amb el xoc. Desafortunadament, aquests ceps no van tenir la sort de conductor, que va sortir de l’accident amb vida.

Com pots explicar a algú la gran importància que aquests ceps tenen per la família propietària, com explicar el seu valor, que són irreemplaçables? En Ton un cop va dir que “arrancar-ne un seria com arrancar-nos nosaltres mateixos”, el que ens pot donar una idea del que devia sentir quan va saber el que havia passat.

Estic contenta, però, que després de 76 anys de vida la major part d’aquesta vinya resti encara intacta, perquè això vol dir que podrem continuar gaudint del meravellós cava que surt dels seus ceps. És, amics meus, extraordinari. Unes 3.000 ampolles surten dels aproximadament 4.400 kg de xarel·lo, veremat a mà cada any. Fermentat primer en roure durant dues setmanes i envellit un mínim de 120 mesos en els cellers de Recaredo, aquest cava és únic en molts aspectes. Quan la primera anyada (1999) va sortir, va ser el primer cava d’una sola vinya elaborat mai, i també el primer monovarietal de xarel·lo. És la perfecta expressió de la terra on creix i clarament pots olorar i tastar el sòl calcari, el romaní, la farigola i el fonoll que creixen al turó que hi ha al costat de la vinya, tot i els 10 anys de criança, és encara fresc i vibrant.

Així doncs, tots aquells de mentalitat estreta que no creuen que el cava pugui envellir… està clar que mai han tastat el Turó d’en Mota. Ja han passat com a mínim 3 anys d’ençà de la nostra visita a aquella fantàstica vinya i haig de dir, honestament, que l’enyoro. Cada cop que aquest any he passat conduint per la sortida de la carretera que porta cap al Turó d’en Mota, just als afores de Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, he pensat que “la propera vegada” prendrem la sortida i conduirem cap allà només per saludar i veure com estan els ceps, però no, mai passa i ara que estic aquí, a Suècia, no puc parar de pensar en els meus amics, els ceps del turó.

 

Anna Wallner · Glass of Bubbly (Març 2016)

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